Most visitors consider a French Creole dinner under the stars enough of a nocturnal adventure. Beyond that, there isn't a lot of excitement here.

In Gustavia, the most popular gathering place is Le Select, rue de la France (tel. 590/27-86-87), apparently named after its more famous granddaddy in the Montparnasse section of Paris. It's utterly simple: Tables are set on the gravel in the open-air garden, near the port, and a game of dominoes might be under way as you walk in. You never know who might show up here -- perhaps Mick Jagger. Beer begins at 2€ to 2.50€, and the place is open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 1am. There is live entertainment weekly. The locals like it a lot; they allow outsiders, but don't necessarily embrace you until they get to know you a bit. If you want to start a rumor and have it travel fast across the island, do so here.

La Cantina, rue du Bord-de-Mer (tel. 590/27-55-66), is one of the more charming watering holes in Gustavia. It's set along the waterfront, with a decor that includes artifacts from Mexico. The mood is "Cote d'Azur in the 1970s" (before it was ruined by tour operators). The menu is set up like something aboard a cruise ship, and is very, very simple, featuring only sandwiches, salads, and drinks. Come to check out the people and the scenery from this portside perch in the heart of Gustavia. Salads and platters range from 10€ to 21€; the place opens daily from 7am to 11pm.

Bar de l'Oubli, 5 rue de la Republique (tel. 590/27-70-06), occupies the most prominent corner in Gustavia, at the intersection of streets that are so well known that most local residents don't even know their names -- they refer to it simply as "Centre-Ville." The setting is hip and Gallic, the color scheme is marine blue and white, and the background music might be the Rolling Stones. Sandwiches and salads are served. It's open daily from 8am (when breakfast is served to clients recovering from various stages of their hangovers) to 10 or 11pm, depending on business.